Sera's Ultimate Guide to Berlin, pt. 1

Creating your plan for Krezuberg, Neukölln, and the club scene

Welcome to part one of this special edition issue of Brunch at Sera’s!

I completely underestimated just how long it would take me to edit through four years of iPhone notes, TikTok favorites, Google saves, and random “wait, I really want to go there” texts on WhatsApp. I also didn’t anticipate how much longer it would then take to find an acceptable, cohesive, and understandable format to present it all in. After countless hours of writing, structuring, and restructuring, I think I’ve finally done it — my guide to Berlin, aka the best city ever, is here (at least, part one is).

Some administrative notes:

• This issue will be truncated via email because it’s so damn long — best to read it on Substack directly!

• One thing I really can’t stand about city recommendations is when you get a list and then you’re expected to piece through them and figure out where everything is on your own, so I’ve decided to group this guide via neighborhood.

• This guide isn’t presented in itinerary format, but rather a suggestion of many possible things you could be doing in one geographical area. I find that makes it easier to build your own plan. I’ve also tried to link as much as possible. If you’re looking for itineraries - here’s a sample one for the weekend and one for the week (although please note, these definitely favor warmer weather).

• This should probably go without saying, but these recommendations are through the lens of the way I experience Berlin - for example, there are some amazing fine dining options here, but that’s not something I often spend my money on, so I’m not in a position to recommend those. Berlin is also quite large, so while there are also many incredible neighbourhoods, there are simply not enough hours in the days, and I often find myself unable to explore as many of them as much as I’d like. This is an accurate representation of my own personal experience in Berlin.

• There are some places included in this guide that I haven’t personally been to but are still on my list, thanks to recommendations from friends — they’re all noted as such.

• Since this is technically part of my Brunch at Sera’s series, this guide is behind a paywall. I completely understand that it may feel totally ridiculous to pay for my writing, but feel free to make use of the free trial — if after seven days, you don’t wish to continue (for whatever reason, absolutely zero judgment from me) please cancel!

• I would have loved to have been able to fit this all into one issue, to make it easier to circulate, but that proved to be simply impossible.

• “Kiez” = neighborhood (you’ll see this word a lot)

So without further ado, welcome to part one of Sera’s Ultimate Guide to Berlin — everything you’ve ever wanted to know for planning the weekend trip (or longer) of your dreams — or if you’re a local, maybe you’ll discover some new spots!

Berlin is made up of 12 districts, and I’ve arranged them in order of the ones I’ve spent the most time in, starting with:

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Kreuzberg and Neukölln:

Kreuzberg was historically quite an undesirable, working class neighborhood. It was right along the Berlin Wall, which is why the majority of Kreuzberg residents were Turkish guest workers. Once the wall came down, it became extremely trendy/gentrified — for better or for worse. It’s a very visually edgy and quirky area, with plenty of graffiti everywhere, and is often considered the bohemian capital of Germany.

Neukölln is just southeast of Kreuzberg and is also historically a working class neighborhood that is more predominantly Arab, particularly on Sonnennallee. It’s less gentrified than Kreuzberg (although this is increasing in real time) and is very vibrant and mutlicultural.

As this is the area I spend the most time in, I’ve done my best to organize my Kreuzberg/Neukölln (and “Kreuzkölln”, the area where they overlap) recs as cohesively as possible — but please bear in mind that I am merely mortal!

Kottbusser Tor:

“Kotti”, as it’s colloquially known, is basically in the dead center of Kreuzberg. It’s a bustling place, and both Kotti and its neighboring Moritzplatz are the site of frequent demonstrations (across a full range of topics).

Here are some of my favorites in the area:

• Oranienstraße - a lively street with plenty of bars, restaurants, and shops, great to walk down

• Café Luzia - trendy bar/cafe, great people watching (everyone’s outfits are always on point)

• Voo Store - a very well curated designer boutique, great coffee at Voo Deli + bottles of natural wine available for sale

• Ora - restaurant in a beautiful, old apothecary. On the more expensive side, tasting menu, special occasion type of place

• Klinke - German tapas, great way to try small bites of classic foods in a chic environment, good drinks

• Orania Restaurant & Bar - have never ben here but have alway wanted to go, a high end place with live piano

• Modulor - a really cool art store, great bookstore downstairs

• Berlinische Galerie - great museum of modern art and photography, incredible Dada collection

• Buya - the best ramen in the city, in my opinion

• Sake 36 - the coolest sake bar, right by Buya

• Filmkunstbar - a fun dance bar with a (now vintage) DVD collection

  

  

  Clockwise from top left: dinner with friends at Ora, Voo Deli's coffee and natural wine selection, drinks at Cafe Luzia, my phone background from the corner of Oranienstr. and Oranienplatz, German tapas at Klinke